Higher and Higher

That’s me on the top on the right!

Just kidding. It’s a child. Yes, they have the children climb up to the top of the human towers (“castells” in Catalán). They’re built at festivals in Catalunya, typically in front of the town hall balcony (as in my photos taken in the small town of Fontanilles). The activity was declared a “masterpiece of intangible heritage” by UNESCO and recognized as an integral part of Catalan culture. Castells were featured in the opening ceremonies of the Olympics in Barcelona in 1992. The first castell was documented in 1712, and in the 1980´s, women were permitted to join in, which allowed the towers to be built higher, sometimes up to nine and ten stories. The highest castell I witnessed being built was seven stories.

The castellers typically wear white trousers, a black sash, a bandana, and a shirt in the color of their team. The sash supports the lower back, and it’s used as a foothold or handhold when climbing up the tower. The castellers usually go barefoot in order to minimise injuries as they climb and also for increased sensitivity when balancing.

The castell is built in two phases. First, the base is carefully formed to sustain the weight of the tower. As subsequent levels are completed, the castellers in the base decide if it is solid enough for construction to continue. Members at the base act as a safety net if the tower collapses, cushioning the fall of people from the upper levels. When the signal to proceed is given, bands play the traditional music and silence is requested of the spectators. The upper layers are built as quickly as possible to put minimal strain on the lower castellers. The assembly is complete once all the castellers have climbed into their places, and the “enxaneta” climbs to the top. The enxaneta (a child) has to stand up and raise one arm, then climb down the other side, after which the remaining levels of castellers descend from the top down. A castell is considered a success when the tower is assembled and disassembled fluidly.

The disassembly of the castell can be the most treacherous part of the event. One of the towers fell while I was watching the spectacle in Fontanilles. I turned my back so I wouldn’t see, but it ended well with the members of the base protecting the climbers who fell.

The motto of the castellers is “strength, balance, courage, and common sense.” Accidents are rare during the construction of a castell; however, ambulances are stationed nearby. In 2006, a young casteller  fell off the formation and died, which led to the requirement of specially designed helmets for all participating children. There have only ever been four recorded mortalities.

It was a fun experience and although there are towers built in areas where tourists can be spectators, this event was solely for the benefit of the performers and the local audience. It was thrilling, and to my knowledge, there was not a tourist in sight. There was an olive oil festival at the same time. I bought some olive oil and some incredible black olives marinated in caramelized onions and some green ones in garlic and parsley. I love being a part of things like this.

This past week, I took a quick trip to Rogny-les Sept-Ecluses in France for my friend’s birthday. We had a fabulous meal at a Michelin starred restaurant, L’Auberge des Templiers in Boismorand. YUM!! My favourite is in the first photo: a mousse of raw shrimp inside a soft-boiled egg with some creamy foam on top and herbs. The second photo is of some delicious scallops, followed by shrimp with wasabi and a spider crab creation. Not really sure what anything was as the wait staff spoke little English, but it all tasted good!

The day I arrived to Gare de Lyon it was PACKED! It was like Mardi Gras in the Quarter back in the day! I was a little frightened about being crushed. It was a Friday and I think all of Paris was trying to get the Hell out of Paris! I was worried about getting back to Begur on the train. There were threats of cancellations due to the strikes and there was an added worry because there had been a breakdown on the high speed line in Barcelona the day before and 95 people had to be evacuated THROUGH A TUNNEL! Not something I’d like to experience! On the return trip, things had gone back to normal in the Paris station and my train wasn’t cancelled and all went according to plan. Whew! It’s always something!