She lives in Begur. She’s in the town begging in one or another of her favorite spots every day. They tell me she’s not a gypsy. They tell me she has a house and money. Yet still she begs. And she’s relentless. If you give her a euro coin, she asks for a bill. She wants more. Who dresses like this who’s not a gypsy? I wish I knew more about her. Maybe someday I’ll interview her for an exposé.
“Foc Off”
Spain has been experiencing a drought the past few years, which seems to be worsening. Various programs have been put into place to help prevent fires. “Foc” means fire in Catalan.
Foc Off is a drought and forest fire awareness campaign launched in Catalunya in June 2023 at the beginning of a long, hot summer. It is reported that last year was the driest on record since 1950 and rainfall was below average for 32 straight months. Because nine out of ten fires are said to be caused by humans, the campaign warns of the dangers of setting off firecrackers or using machinery in high-risk areas. Another awareness campaign, with the slogan ‘Water does not fall from the sky,” calls for the reduction of water consumption. Water restrictions have been put in place all over Catalunya, which is in a state of pre-emergency. Municipal governments are now prohibited from using drinking water for street cleaning or to water lawns. Water limits for use in industry and agriculture have been increased, and authorities have warned that a full-blown drought emergency could require tankers to bring in drinking water.
Below are some pictures of the forest thinning they’ve been doing near my house. Sad..
And why do they have coffee cups without handles? Hard to comprehend…
One of the things I love best about living in Begur is participating in the local festivities, of which there are many. Last weekend was a celebration of the famous Flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya, who was born in Barcelona, but who adopted Begur as her hometown later in life and died here in 1963. She has been called the greatest Flamenco dancer of all time. She was a gypsy and the first female to master some of the most intricate footwork performed by male dancers. On November 2, 2023, Google celebrated her 110th birthday with a Google Doodle. Bet you didn’t guess that one!
The celebration included a flamenco performance. Here’s a clip, though you can’t see the feet (the most important part) because I’m short (duh) and couldn’t see over the heads in front of me.
The prior weekend, the Scooter Club of Begur’s 50 km ride had a big sendoff from the Square. Not Easy Rider!
Political dysfunction knows no boundaries. It is epitomized here in Spain by the recent plight of the national government, which was basically in limbo for four months, similar to the recent situation in the U.S. House of Representatives. I’ve tried to provide a concise account as I see it, based on various sources. This is definitely overly simplified, but hopefully true as far as it goes.
Spain’s snap general election this past July failed to produce a majority in Congress for either the Spanish left or right. A sweeping majority for the center-right party had been forecast by political pundits and polls, but results of Prime Minister Pedro Sánchez’s Socialist party surprised Spain and forced a political stalemate. Hung parliaments have become the norm in recent years due to the fragmentation of Spain’s politics and the emergence of new parties challenging the dominance of the major left and right parties.
Each side began political jockeying, seeking votes for an absolute majority in Spain’s Congress of Deputies. The process is a parliamentarian investiture by which the head of government is indirectly elected by the Congress of Deputies. In practice, the prime minister is almost always the leader of the largest party in the Congress.
Sánchez and the Socialists on the left had the most realistic chance of reaching the votes necessary to govern, but to get to that number, Sánchez had to cobble together support from the far-left party and smaller regional parties, including the Catalan separatist party led by Carles Puigdemont. Puigdemont was the leader of the failed Catalan independence bid in 2017, who has been living in self-imposed exile in Belgium since that time. The separatists’ main demand in return for their votes to renew Sánchez’s term as prime minister, was amnesty for the leaders of that failed independence bid. Sánchez agreed and proposed an amnesty law, saying it was necessary “in the name of Spain, in the interest of Spain and in defense of coexistence among Spaniards.” Sánchez had previously opposed such a move, but he agreed to amnesty now, despite major protests by the right. Most see this as his determination to stay in power at all costs. Lawsuits filed against the amnesty law will have to go through different courts until finally reaching the Constitutional Court of Spain, and, eventually, the Court of Justice of the European Union.
Sánchez was re-elected as Prime Minister on November 16, 2023, though the country remains deeply divided. The amnesty law is wildly unpopular, with over half of the citizens of Spain against it, and even many in Catalunya are not in favor of it. On the other hand, the failure of the right wing to win a clear majority in July represented a rejection of its proposed policies of rolling back laws on gender violence, LGBTQ rights, abortion, and euthanasia.
The 51-year-old Sánchez, known as “Mr Handsome” at the start of his political career, has had to play a delicate balancing act to stay in power. His current situation is “the most complicated he has ever known” because he will have to govern across a wide range of political parties.
Below on the left, Sánchez is voted in; on the right over 100,000 in Madrid protest the proposed amnesty…
For those with a knowledge of Spanish, this Huffington Post headline seems clever, a play on words meaning the investiture was hard: UNA INVESTI-MUY-DURA.
I’m having a sunrise/sunset battle of photos with a friend who lives in Begur. She has a different view than I do. She looks West and I look East. The oranges vs the pinks!
I did the stupidest thing. Well, another stupid thing. I went onto my balcony when I first woke up to take in the sunrise as I do most mornings, and I saw that the Pyrenees to my north were covered in snow! Or so I thought. When I went out again 30 minutes later to test the weather for what I’d wear that day, the snow was gone! OMG. It was just a large white cloud sitting on top of the mountains. And I’d sent the photo to four friends proclaiming that the snow had arrived! I had to backtrack and admit my stupidity. But it looks like snow, right??
A couple of weeks ago, French winemakers staged a protest against the importation of Spanish wines, claiming the imports create an unfair competitive advantage in the local market, which is already experiencing a surplus of wine. About 500 protesters just across the border from Spain in France intercepted trucks transporting Spanish products. They lit tires on fire to stop the traffic to search for trucks carrying Spanish wine. Two tanker trunks carrying red wine were emptied onto the highway spilling over 2,400 liters of Spanish rosé on the road and and a tractor trailer carrying pallets of Freixenet Cava was opened and the contents smashed onto the ground, bubbles fizzing out, destroying 10,000 bottles of Spanish cava. Another truck transporting tomatoes was emptied, the cargo splattered onto the road. What a mess!
Also interesting (to me, anyway), I read that Spain is planning to address climate change by cancelling short-haul flights within the country for routes that could be replaced by train journeys of 2.5 hours or less. Around 35 percent of domestic flights in Spain – most of them to or from Madrid could be cancelled, and replaced with high-speed trains. The move is supposed to reduce emissions by around 10 percent without affecting total travel times. France has already banned this type of in-country flight and more flight routes within France may be discontinued in the future.
In other news, of questionable relevance, Princess Leonor, Daughter of the current King Felipe of Spain and granddaughter of disgraced former King Juan Carlos, pledged her allegiance to the Spanish Constitution in a ceremony this week on her 18th birthday before the joint session of the Spanish Congress and Senate. Leonor is the presumptive heir to the throne. Of course, if she’d had a brother, even if younger, he would have been heir. As Barbie would say “the Patriarchy!” Her father, King Felipe VI of Spain, took the same oath on his 18th birthday in 1986 and took the throne in 2014 after his father, King Juan Carlos abdicated due to his plummeting popularity. Juan Carlos left Spain in 2020 for Abu Dhabi after allegations of corrupt business dealings with Saudi Arabia became public, in order to save his son from further embarrassment. Following her oath, Leonor asked the Spanish people to put their trust in her. The Presidents of the states of Cataluyna and of the Basque Country did not attend the ceremony. She seems very poised for 18.
A mí! Or Feliç Anniversari in Catalan. Not that I’m happy about being this age (ugh!), but as they say, it’s better than the alternative, which is becoming statistically more likely each year.
Last week was another holiday I wasn’t prepared for – Día de la Hispanidad, the National Day of Spain, celebrating Spanish pride. It was created in 1892 to commemorate the four-hundredth year anniversary of the discovery of America by Columbus. Some establishments and businesses in Catalunya, however, refuse to celebrate the day because of their animosity towards the Spanish government, but many people take advantage of the day off of work, regardless of the reason for the holiday, which I found out when I went to run errands and places were closed.
This time in the fall is tied to other festivities in Catalunya. One is the Castanyada – the celebration of chestnuts on the evening of October 31st, when families eat a meal of chestnuts, sweet potatoes, marzipan-based ‘panellets,’ and preserved fruits. The symbol of the festival is an old peasant woman in a headscarf roasting chestnuts on the street. Vendors pop up on the streets of Barcelona, selling warm chestnuts wrapped in newspaper as well as roasted whole or halved sweet potatoes. I hope to have some when I go to Barcelona for my haircut next week!
All Saints Day, based on ancient pagan traditions, is celebrated on November 1st to commemorate the souls of deceased family members. The custom is to visit the graves of loved ones to lay flowers.
Halloween is becoming more popular in Spain, with people of all ages dressing up in costumes and decorating their houses and businesses in scary decor. Some children even go trick-or-treating, or truco o trato in Spanish. The China store has racks of Halloween costumes. This is only a small fraction of their stock in the photo below. But look who’s overseeing it all! Santa, of course!
Last week I led a hike for some unsuspecting members of the expat group. Even though I had previously scoped out a loop through a medieval town square and up through the hills past several wineries (where we did not stop), I got the group of 11 lost. Eventually we made our way around a vineyard that may have been private property, back to a route that would lead us home. What was supposed to be an 8 km walk turned into 12 km and we were an hour late for our lunch reservation, but all’s well that ends well! Everyone knows I’m directionally challenged! I should never have been allowed to lead!!
I love to drive to my house. It’s 8 kilometres (about 5 miles) from Begur around a twisting, turning two-lane road. The speed limit is 30 kmh (about 19 mph), but there’s no radar, luckily, and few cars, so I go fast. It’s so much fun! I do have to be careful going around the curves to stay in my lane and trust that others, including huge trucks carrying construction equipment, stay in theirs. There are only a couple of places where I could go over the cliff, so that’s good. But it does limit my alcohol consumption when I eat dinner in town! I think I’ve frightened a few of my passengers!
I’ve actually gotten a few speeding tickets. They have a lot of radar cameras. I got four the first year. After that, I slowed down and paid more attention to the signs telling me I was in a zone monitored by radar, but last year I got another two, and this year one in France. They tracked me down. Supposedly you can only get a certain number (you receive points against your license for each violation) before they suspend your license, but since I haven’t gotten a Spanish license, I think I’m home free for the moment. You are required to get a Spanish license after being here for 6 months. It’s not that easy. You have to take a driving course, which I’ve heard costs at least $1,000, and then pass the test. So far I’ve ignored the rule and I’m just waiting to get caught, claim ignorance, and hope the fine isn’t too high. Then I guess I’ll take the damn course. I have a friend who has been here 9 years without getting caught. That’s what I’m banking on.
I went to a Mexican restaurant in a nearby beach town recently. I usually order small portions, but I ordered the tasting menu because I wanted to try all of it to see what they considered Mexican food. The nachos were tortilla chips with a very thin layer of melted cheese barely covering the chip and some sausage-y meat on top. There was a “wrap” which was really not Mexican in the least. It was filled with chicken and was more like a Chick-Fil-A wrap. The fajitas were extremely peculiar. There were cold flour (?) tortillas served with some sort of cubed meat mixed with the same whitish cheese that was on the nachos. There was a dab of guacamole on the plate, but no salsa or pico de gallo anywhere. My favorite distorted entry was the quesadilla which had ham inside. It was lunchmeat type ham. Very weird. But the Corona was fine!
Strange segue…Spain has strict laws regarding pet ownership that affect all animals – domestic or wild – under human care, to ensure their welfare. The recently enacted Animal Welfare law was passed “to fight against the mistreatment, abandonment, and slaughter of animals.” All pets must be registered and microchipped to ensure they receive proper care and prevent abandonment. Some of the other requirements are listed below, but they will not come into force until a new government has been formed. Spain’s government is just as dysfunctional as ours!!
Pets will be considered legal family members. This law can help protect them if families split up. Officials will keep the animals’ well-being in mind during divorces and custody battles;
It will be compulsory to sterilize all animals that are living outside a dwelling, including pets in the garden, in outdoor runs, or in rural homes located in countryside areas;
To own a dog in Spain you will have to complete a free “responsible pet ownership course” online;
Pet owners are required to have compulsory liability insurance. Only people with hunting, guard and working dogs will be exempt. I got mine for 41€ each for one year;
The law prohibits the use of electronic or punitive dog collars;
Pet shops will no longer sell dogs and cats, promoting adoption and responsible breeding. Pets will only be sold from registered breeders. Pet shops have six months to find homes for the animals they currently have;
Wild animals like lions or tigers have been banned from circuses with the owners of these animals given six months to comply. Marine parks may still use dolphins until these mammals die;
The law also says a pet may not be left unattended for more than three consecutive days, even if they have food and water, a period that is reduced to 24 hours in the case of dogs;
Leaving dogs or cats on terraces or patios, although not prohibited, is now time-limited;
Pet owners will not be able to leave their animals alone inside closed vehicles or exposed to any thermal conditions that could put their lives in danger;
Animals cannot be allowed to be left alone or tied up in public spaces, which means no leaving your dog outside the supermarket, which is often done here;
Also, there is now a maximum amount of pets one can have: five;
Oddly, Bullfights, regarded by some Spaniards as an integral part of the country’s culture, have not been included in the law. Catalunya, however, banned it in 2010. And the law, again outside of bullfighting, outlaws the use of animals for recreational activities that cause them pain and suffering;
Offenses are punishable with fines of 500€ to 200,000€ and potentially imprisonment.
Technically, I am higher, in the sense that I’m above sea level.
I thoroughly enjoyed my hectic time in Texas, as well as Florida, Colorado and Mississippi, but now I’m back on this side of the pond.
I gotta say the weather is better here…at least until the cold and wind arrive!
I’m glad to be here again. I feel more tranquil. It’s probably because of the sea…looking out from my balcony at the blue water extending to the horizon and hearing the sound of the waves and the wind. Whatever the reason, the effects are good for my state of mind.
Every summer when I vacate my apartment here, I have to store my belongings for the time that I am away. And I have A LOT of belongings! Libras (like me), it is said, are known for craving order, balance, and beauty. Their home needs to be organized, attractive, and cozy. So, I’ve made the apartment that I rent my own. I put away the host’s sheets and towels and pillows and knick knacks, and replace them with my own. I’ve had to hold myself back from buying dishes and furniture, and so far I’ve been successful in that. I’ve even taken down some of the wall art and bought other pieces. Next to my bed, the hosts had hanging a drawing of a naked woman seen from behind. Her perfect hourglass figure only taunted me, reminding me of my increasingly imperfect figure. So I took it down and replaced it with a pastel of the Begur castle painted in soothing colors.
I’ve written before of my internal struggle with missing family and friends and wondering whether living here is the right thing for me to do. But then I’ll have a moment like I had yesterday. I went to the annual festival (Festa Major) of a small town near me. I was invited by a British friend who lives there and is on the town’s committee that organises the event. I didn’t really want to go because I’ve only been here about 5 days and I had things to do, but I went and it was so worth it. It’s a town of 900+ people and there was a crowd over a few hundred in the square. We drank Vermouth and nibbled on potato chips and olives while a duo of a guitarist and drummer played popular songs in English, Spanish, and Catalan. I’d never heard Maggie Mae sung in Spanish!! People of all ages danced and sang along. This is why I’m here.
I feel like I have made some progress in my continuing goal to improve my Catalan language ability, but fluidity of speech is still out of reach. But French on the other hand, which I am also continuing to study, I feel like I will NEVER come close to mastering. How do all those French people do it? I’m going to keep trying though!!
LOVE BEGUR! Love the Costa Brava! Love Catalunya! Happy to be here!!!
I just found this quote…I don’t know where it’s from, but I like it: seeking out places that light up your soul is nothing to be ashamed of.
…basically means see you soon in Catalán! I’m on my way to the USA. I’m anxious to spend time with my friends and the grandson I haven’t seen since he was born last November! Knowing I’m all set to return to Begur in mid-September feels good. I have my ticket, my dog mule, a plan…
Having a place to stay each year for however long I decide, absent any time during the summer or Christmas, is very reassuring. The apartment is not mine, but I have no responsibility for upkeep, and I have the most fabulous view! Those of us who live on my street constantly say how lucky we are and how we are in the best location on earth.
Pamplona during San Fermin
It was an interesting drive to France this year. When planning the trip with a stop in Pamplona on July 1, it didn’t occur to me that the festivities for the running of the bulls would begin a week early! The festivities around San Fermín officially begin on July 7, but the streets were already packed with revellers. And not just tourists. The locals seemed to be enjoying every minute.
And why would I ever think that the Tour de France might interfere with my trip across the Basque coast of Spain? The race started on July 1 in Bilbao, Spain. We arrived in Bilbao on July 2 and then drove to San Sebastián, Spain where there seemed to be no parking in the whole city as the cyclists flew through on the race’s second day! It was only a minor delay.
Last week I wrote about being Zsa Zsa, but once upon a time someone called me Susie Catalana. I like that name. It’s me too. And not to brag, but I got a 92 on my Catalán final exam!
I probably won’t write again until September, so keep cool and enjoy life!!
I chose the grandma name of Zsa Zsa because Ms. Gabor and I are so alike, of course. She was known for her extravagant Hollywood lifestyle, her glamorous personality, and her many marriages. Ha! Actually, we just share a first name. Zsa Zsa is the Hungarian form of Susan.
I’ve spent the past two weeks with my 20 month-old grandson. So far, he calls me Ya Ya instead of Zsa Zsa, but I’m working on refining that. Later this summer, I’m spending a week with my other grandson who will be eight months. I’ll try to educate him early in the proper pronunciation of my chosen name.
I’m not your typical grandma. Obviously. I’ve forsaken my family in the name of adventure and the fulfilment of my personal dreams – a choice I continually question, and yet confirm. But there is some guilt as well.
YOLO! Never look back!
I can only hope my esprit de corps is passed on and they live their dreams as best they can, and don’t waste time in doing so! I love them both dearly. I hope I will have time to know them and them to know me.
Talking on the “phone,” eating clams!, riding on Mama’s back, being adorable!
The cutest cousins (below)! I get to spend quality time with the baby this summer!!
To those who are Wordle players and fans, I hate to brag, and I think I’m generally an average player, usually guessing the word in four tries, though three is always my goal. The bragging part is that on days when I have time, I do Wordle in four languages: English, Spanish, Catalan, and French. If you understand the rules of the language, it’s really not that hard, even if you don’t have a large vocabulary. But, recently, and this was a fluke, I guessed the Catalan word in TWO guesses!!
My neighbor took the photos below of an incoming storm that never materialized, but it made a stunning photo! And yesterday of an impressive yacht parked just off our shore. A friend shared a site called Marine Tracker and I was able to find the yacht which is now on its way to St. Tropez…without me!
Champagne, Prosecco and Cava are often lumped together, but there are differences, including how they’re produced, the grapes they use, and how they taste. Cava is Spain’s contribution to sparkling wine, and most of it comes from right here in Catalunya! It’s usually made with lesser-known grape varietals though it can also be made from Chardonnay or Pinot grapes. Most Cava is sold at at a price similar to Prosecco, but it’s more similar to Champagne in character and production. Champagne requires the longest time to age, about 15 months; Prosecco doesn’t need as much time since it uses very little sugar; and Cava needs about nine months of aging.
The only real “champagne” is made in the Champagne region of France and must be made from Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, or Chardonnay grapes, or a blend of all three. Prosecco is made in the Veneto region of Italy (the same region that produced my favorite cocktail, the Aperol Sprintz!), from a varietal of grape called Glera. The production method for Prosecco is notably different from Champagne or Cava in that the second fermentation happens in steel tanks rather than in bottles. Prosecco tends to be a little sweeter than Champagne or Cava, and so it’s considered the best choice to use in sparkling cocktails.
The Aperol Spritz has become popular due to its refreshing qualities, bright color, and lower alcohol content. It has a bitter flavor from a combination of aromatic ingredients and at the same time it’s sweeter with less alcohol content than other cocktails. I like an Aperol Spritz in a very large wine glass with lots of ice on a hot day! Or any day!
Since I joined the expat group here on the Costa Brava, I’ve learned about a lot of places of interest around me and some great restaurants. My list of places to take visitors has now grown from Cadaqués, Salvador Dalí’s house in Port Lligat, Cap de Creus Natural Park, the lighthouse in Llafranç, the Dalí museum in Figueres, the Castle overlooking Begur, and the beaches of Begur (including the sex beach in Calella — so-called by me because one day in January when I thought I was the only person for miles around, I came upon two people on this beach putting their pants on!), to include the wildlife sanctuary in the marshlands, the Botanical gardens (photo below), a cider house in the middle of an apple orchard, and several nearby medieval villages like Pals, Peretallada, and Besalu. I really didn’t want to join a group of elderly English speakers, but they have shown me a lot!
Late-breaking news…I found my white pants! Because I don’t have a dryer, I dry my clothes near the radiator in winter and on a rack on the balcony when there is sun. There was very little wind last weekend, so I hung my white pants over the wide edge of the balcony. Later, after I brought in my other clothes, I realized my pants were missing. They weren’t on the ground or in the bushes or on the terrace below me. I kept looking for days, and today I wandered all the way down toward the water and I saw them. I thought I saw them, it was something white. I had to go get my binoculars to make sure. Yep. But the hill was too steep and rocky for someone of my age and agility to climb. So, I gave my neighbor my mop to use to fish the pants out of the brambles on the other side of the fence which separates our complex from the sea. He thinks my life is just a series of mishaps (that he is often brought into to help solve). Imagine!
This weekend is another weird holiday. They call it “Second Easter”! I think in other parts of the world it’s called the Pentecost, which, according to Wikipedia, is a Christian holiday which takes place on the 50th day after Easter Sunday. It commemorates the descent of the Holy Spirit upon the Apostles. Any excuse…
In the way of the good, there are so many wondrous things the city has to offer. The architecture is beautiful, the museums are outstanding, the cafés and restaurants are plentiful. There are mountains surrounding the city and it faces the sea with its beaches and the port. When the weather is right, there is nothing better than walking the tree-lined streets of the wide boulevards of the Gràcia or Eixemple neighbourhoods or the narrow, ancient ones in the Gothic Quarter.
I don’t go to the Sagrada Familia every time I visit the city, but I have gone every time I have out-of-town visitors. And it takes my breath away every time. I’m an admitted agnostic, but the depth of spirituality and love that Gaudí expresses through his designs and that his followers have maintained, is so apparent and so beautiful that it touches me deeply. It’s truly a unique experience, and I often cry when visiting the Basilica. I tell guests that it is the only essential “must-do” for visitors to the city, even though there are many other delights to be had!
One of my favourite spots is the Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boquería, a market of over 300 stalls in the old city. It is packed with tourists, but there are locals as well, buying fruit, vegetables, fish and meat; and the small bars inside the market have some excellent tapas and sangria! I often stop there when I go into town to shop.
Barcelona probably has some of the best restaurants in the world, but even the multitudes of “average” ones can provide a great experience with Spanish and Catalan foods. My problem is that I just don’t know them! People ask me for recommendations all the time, but I have only a few that I have tried myself. There are lists and lists online of the “best,” but I’m usually only in town for the day and I don’t enjoy eating out alone. I don’t mind having a bite by myself, such as in the market or at a café, but to truly enjoy a wonderful meal, to me, requires a companion to share in the pleasure. So, I’m slowly creating a list. If you have a recommendation that you’ve tried and love, please pass it on to me! So far, Cerveceria Catalana (fabulous tapas, always crowded, no reservations), Terrassa Martinez (incredible view of the port and the city), and the Real Cercle (overlooking the busy pedestrian shopping street, Porta de l’Angel) are my go-to spots with friends.
The bad is that Barcelona can be very crowded, as it has seemed again since the end of widespread COVID. I’ve heard that Barcelona is the second most visited city in Europe, after Paris. And there is also the crime – primarily petty crime such as pick-pocketing, which requires some vigilance. I’ve been a target — a slashed tire, a broken car window, a potential shake-down averted…
The ugly, I would say, are the unfortunates. There are homeless in Barcelona as there are in all big cities, but I don’t see many, and there are beggars on the streets. But the most disturbing sights are the seriously deformed. I’ve encountered several asking for a handout who are crippled beyond belief, misshapen and contorted. Not to receive a pat on the back, but I always give these people money. Their lives seem destined to be miserable from the start. Some may have support or family that is not visible to me as I pass by, but I can’t help but worry that they have no one to help them, maybe they were abandoned by their families or they just outlived them. It’s extremely upsetting. I’ve heard people say that some beggars actually have plenty of money, that they live on the streets because they prefer it. Some are happy and like the lives they live. That may be true in some cases, but not these people. It seems impossible.
To end on a lighter note! I had another fabulous sunrise recently, and … a great visit with US friends…
Susie's Senior Year Abroad 
