I’m back to my home that’s not my home. It’s strange to be in a different apartment in the same complex (only 12 units). I arrived on the weekend of September 11, the national day of Catalunya, which has a different meaning here. While most nations celebrate a victory day, the Catalans chose a day of defeat commemorating the fall of Barcelona during the War of the Spanish Succession in 1714. Because September 11 was on a Friday, it was a “puente” (literally a bridge, but meaning a long weekend). I was slightly horrified when I arrived that the town was packed with tourists and second home owners just as it was when I left in July! The parking lot of my complex was full and there were cars on the street and people everywhere. It was disheartening. But then on Monday morning, voila! They were gone!! School started and everyone scattered. It’s wonderful to be here in the peace and quiet and beauty of the place. I couldn’t be happier!

That said, I’m ambivalent about leaving to come home. I’ll be flying out of Barcelona with my new French friend and my two dogs in October, almost five months after my originally scheduled departure date. I hate that there is a murderous virus out there and I didn’t enjoy feeling like a prisoner held somewhat against my will, but it’s been wonderful and dispiriting and challenging and instructive and I wouldn’t change the experience for anything.

I’m dreading the travel back to the States. I bought a face shield, which I’ll wear with my N95 mask I’ve been saving. I plan to quarantine myself in Galveston when I get back. Who knows what kind of people and germs I could come in contact with during the trip!

Hope to see each of you in some safe space very soon!! Of course, I have a few more weeks of adventure before I leave… I love it!

I get emails from a French food company, La Belle-Iloise, because I’ve ordered some products from them. They sell fancy canned tuna and sardines of various types. But, for you Texans, you’ll be glad to know that you can get a jar of your favorite “famous Texas recipe” for Mackerel Chili made of white beans and chunks of mackerel! Yum! Those french have got our number!

As I leave France, I’m not sure how I can ever thank her.  My friend and recent ex-housemate, Susan, gave me a home, and a fabulous home, when I really needed one.  I was stuck in Europe alone with my canine dependents, without a place to stay for at least six weeks (and it turned into eight!).  I tried my best to repay her by cooking dinner often, sometimes successfully, and other times adequately, and being the bartender.  But there was a big deficit to overcome – her cats were forced into their own one-room quarantine for nine hours a day, while my dogs lived free.  If by chance the dogs came into visual contact with one or both cats, all Hell broke loose – running cats, screaming mimi dogs.  Although I’m affable, adaptable, and amenable to most anything, I also have some drawbacks.

Susan, besides being good company and a brilliant raconteur (even though I can’t remember all of the cast of characters in her extensive array of anecdotes), came up with the very good ideas that eventually got me back to Spain and hopefully, by extension to home in the near future.

I can never thank her enough.  And obviously, my dogs were crazy about her.

Au revoir, Susan!  I know I will be back in Rogny again some day…

…

It was a long trip back to Spain, but I have arrived. Same location, different apartment, and slightly different (better) view. I’m looking forward to enjoying it for a few weeks before heading back to the States. More details as they become available.

I eff’ed up again. I accidentally published the above photo last week and when I attempted to update it with the text, the website read it as a revision, not a new post, so it wasn’t sent out automatically on Friday as I had scheduled. Whoops! Some of you have already read it because you went directly to the website. If this is a repeat for you, sorry…

I didn’t move across the street to the Presbytère (explanation to follow) on Monday as planned. One of the neighbors, occupant of the Presbytère, had a dental issue requiring him to stay in the area. So, I moved in on Thursday. It’s nice to have a full-sized bed to share with Cassie and Cam, but I really felt more at home in my nest at Susan’s place. Some of you may know, but I didn’t, that it’s called the Presbytère (Presbytery in English) because it was the rectory or home of the priest in the village. The village is so small, and shrinking, so there’s not a full-time priest living here. The neighbors bought it some years back. The house dates to the mid-1700’s. It’s very charming.

I appears my request for an extension of my visa has been approved by the French authorities!!! I say “appears that” because the person who answered the phone said that it had been approved, but that it was still being processed. He said the person in charge of my application for an extension was not in the office. She is the one in charge of the “W’s” — of course! Anyway, it means that I’ll be legal for the time period while I’m waiting to leave. I’m greatly relieved!

I thought I’d add a couple of humorus photos from the French grocery store.

On my walk the other day, I encountered an old French, I suppose, hippie leading three mules pulling a wagon filled with baskets. The wagon looked like a gypsy wagon, but he didn’t look like a gypsy – just your ordinary door-to-door salesman selling baskets out of a wagon pulled by mules.

Next week, I’ll report from Spain, God willing!! They’re talking about closing the border again. Jeez.

I guess I’m a day late and a dollar short. I thought yesterday was Thursday!!

I’m moving across the street on Monday, still in Rogny, but now I’ll be living on my own. The neighbors left for Brittany for their annual vacation and I’ll be watching the chickens and watering the plants. Now I just have to worry about my dogs killing chickens instead of cats. Ayayay! Two of them (the neighbors) have serious underlying health issues, so we’ve been distancing and I’m wiping down my rooms. I’ll still make dinner for Susan and visit out on her lovely patio every evening, while during the day, I’ll have plenty of opportunity to quietly ponder my uncertain future.

My French dog mule has sent her passport for renewal, so that’s underway. I’ll probably make a reservation soon to come back, but it may have to be “flexible” because we have to wait for her new passport to arrive.

In the meantime, I’ve decided to go back to Begur for a few weeks before leaving for the US. An apartment in my same complex is available! Yeah! And, incredibly, it has even better views than the last one. This apartment is upstairs from my old one and on the end of the building, so it has unobstructed views of the mountains and the coast north of Begur. I’m very excited about driving back “home” although I will be a little sad to leave my friend and the village of Rogny. It’s been such a lovely place to be for almost two months. I’m feeling at home here and sentimental about it.

But this is my spot!! (Below)

PS: Sorry for Lake Charles, but so so glad Galveston dodged the bullet of Hurricane Laura!! It would have been ironic and sad if, now that I’m sort of homeless, I lost my only real home.

So, I have some progress for now, and hopefully I can report on real plans soon. Fingers crossed!

Cases are rising here in France and also in Spain. At some point, I may have no choice…In the meantime, here are a couple of pretty pictures:

I keep saying this, to myself and to everyone, but maybe next week I’ll have a real plan!

I really thought this was going to be the week when I would announce when I was returning to the States.  That’s what I get for thinking!  I’ve been on pins and needles all week, waiting to find out if I would be able to confirm that I have a companion for the flight.   After living in limbo for so long, I finally have a couple of options for people who could fly back to the States with me and the dogs (for a free ticket and a little cash).  If the first potential companion doesn’t accept, employing the second may require me to overstay my visa legally or illegally.  I’m pursuing an extension of my visa from the French authorities based on force majeure.  I’m still waiting on answers, so no plan yet.  Maybe next week…

I’ve learned to live in the present …one day at a time…since the beginning of lockdown, and I’ve also tried to completely tune out the annoying questions in my head such as When should I go back to the US?  When is it safe?  How do I do it?  Who will help me?  Will I get in trouble?  I’m good (probably great) at compartmentalizing, but it’s been a struggle at times.

I’m starting to think maybe France agrees with me!  About four years ago, I was diagnosed with slightly elevated blood pressure and the doctor prescribed a low dose medication to correct it.  When Covid struck and I read that hypertension was a co-morbidity for the virus, I started paying more attention to taking my medication every day (I was really bad at that) and checking my pressure.  I have a blood pressure cuff and my reading has stayed basically he same  — not high, but not low, closer to borderline.  But since I’ve been checking it in France, it’s been LOW!!  I don’t know what the difference is, but…it’s great!  I had one thought – maybe it’s lower because I’m not alone.

I don’t have much more to report this week.  I’ve been cooking a lot.  So, some photos:

 

 

 

 

 

 

I know I write a lot about the dogs – but they are the source of all of my pain!!  And of course, the source of much of my joy.

Obviously, there’s the return to the US issue with them.  Then there have been the other issues – eating the chocolate, chasing the cats, being general pains-in-the-ass.  But now, there are the plums.  There are two plum trees in the backyard that drop plums by the dozens everyday.  One tree yields red plums and the other green plums.  The green plums are delicious – one of the best fruits I’ve ever tasted!  But, unfortunately, the dogs think so too.  And before I can find them all hidden in the grass each morning, they’ve gobbled them up, pits included.  After that comes vomiting and diarrhea – pits and all!  On the bed.  Yup.  Fun.

I save the best plums and throw the bad ones over the fence into an uninhabited area behind the house.  Sadly, I’ve thrown so many with my left arm (non-dominant arm) that it’s sore from flinging!  Ridiculous.

HAIR!  Since the dawn of time, I don’t think it’s caused such a ruckus as it has during the confinement!  My hair has never been this gray and hasn’t been this long since God knows when…decades!  The length has been kind of fun, but the color had to go!!  Six months of au natural was enough.

Better.

I’ve had a couple of new ideas about how I can get back to the States.  Still working on it. Again, stay tuned… and stay safe!!!

 

 

 

 

 

Photo is of the house across the street.

For 60 years, the label “Villes et Villages Fleuris” has been granted to municipalities throughout France to reward those committed to improving their quality of life based on their use of plants and flowers in public spaces, respect for the environment (management of natural resources and preservation of biodiversity), the development of the local economy, attractiveness to tourists, and the preservation of community.

Rogny is a village fleuri indeed!  One day while I was walking, I saw the municipal workers making their rounds of watering and caring for all of the town’s flowers that adorn the bridges over the canal.  I don’t think that’s a thing in the US.  They take a lot of pride in it.

     

I’ve been checking into the possibility of shipping the dogs home when the weather cools.  The cost I’ve been quoted from two different companies would be about $4,000.  That sure seems like a lot of money!  And I don’t want to do it because I want them with me in the cabin.  It would be much cheaper to buy a ticket for a human to accompany me on the flight, but Catch-22, it has to be an American.  And who would want to expose themselves needlessly to infection for the sake of Cassie or Cam??  But…

Then I discovered that United will allow a person to purchase a seat for their second pet.  This may end up costing as much as the hold, but it would be more acceptable to me.  If I choose this route, I would stay until my visa is expiring and then return to the US  in September.  The only problem is that I would have to fly out of Paris and possibly lose my free return from Barcelona on Delta.  Lots of details to figure out… it gives me a headache.  Still hoping for a blessing…

And lastly, today hit 101 degrees!  All fine and good (not really) if you have air conditioning…

So, you make do…with a blow-up pool!

   

It’s quite different here in Rogny compared to Begur.  It’s mainly flat, no mountains or ocean, but there is a very peaceful vibe of rolling plains of corn, grasses, and sunflowers.  And then there’s the canal with its seven locks.  Boats move through the canal, and also park there temporarily or permanently.

It’s funny how just crossing over the Pyrenees, there is such different architecture, different landscapes, different food.  On one of my first days in France, I went to the Super U grocery store!  I was looking for chicken broth to put on my dogs’ food.  In Spain, there is a half an aisle of chicken stock, seriously.  At a huge grocery store here in France, none.  In France, tons of varieties/brands of creme fraiche, but in Spain, none.

I usually sleep pretty soundly.  The dogs wake me in the morning to go outside to do their business by jumping, shaking, and generally letting me know it’s time.  But here, there’s the rooster.  OMG.  It cock-a-doodle-doo’s for hours!!  Ah, the peaceful country life!  But it’s part of the quaintness and a reminder of a simple, blessed life.

I thought I knew what it was like to live in a small town, but this town is really, really small.  It’s delightful.  It seems everyone knows everyone and all about each other!  My friend here has friends, so we are keeping busy eating out and eating at friends’ homes (all open air).  It’s great fun.  And I’ve really enjoyed trying out my French.  My favorite thing!  Now I get to say bon jour to folks on the street as I walk, and they smile and say it back.  It makes me so happy!  I’ve always loved studying languages, so this is the pinnacle for me – to get to try it out everyday.  I had to get a special dispensation in high school to take Spanish and French at the same time.  WORTH IT!

The latest news is that a group of airlines is urging the US and the European Union to institute a testing program for passengers to allow resumption of transatlantic air travel.  If and when is an open question, but there’s hope!

 

 

 

I’m moving now from Spain to France, switching languages from Spanish to French.  I hope to return to Begur in September, but…who can make plans anymore?  If there is a spike in cases in Spain or in France, will I be allowed to cross the border?  Are there unforeseen circumstances (unforeseen – ha ha, that’s a joke) where I will need to leave for the US from France?  Who knows?

Every time I leave Spain, it breaks my heart.  This time is no exception, and maybe even more so because (1) I don’t know when it will be safe to return and (2) it’s been intense this time.  Even though I’ve had limited human contact, what I have had has been intense – like it’s just us in this tiny bubble in the middle of the apocalypse.  I want to have a chance to come back here to say goodbye to my place, to my view, and to my friends.  I now have 8 friends (plus a few more acquaintances)!!  Who counts their friends??  I do, when it’s been a slow road to friendships.  I’m proud and grateful for them!!  I hope they’re “always” friends!  I’m counting on it!

It was CRAZY hectic getting ready to go.  I’m amazed I didn’t pull my back out lugging these heavy pieces to the storage unit down the steps and around the corner from my apartment!

I just read that they’re closing Barcelona down again — not totally, but asking people to stay home and saying they will take more drastic steps if the outbreak isn’t controlled.  I’m glad they’re jumping on it.

I think the town I am going to in France, Rogny les Sept Ecluses, has had no cases, so that is encouraging!

Au revoir literally means to see again. J’espere, Begur!!!

More from France next week!