My whole visit here and uncertain return has hinged on bringing my dogs home safely. Finally, after finding a traveling companion, I thought all was in order. But, ha ha! No! Delta re-routed me from Barcelona through Paris to NYC after cancelling my non-stop flight. That would have been bad enough, but the flight from Barcelona to Paris was scheduled to leave at 6:15 a.m. I’m just not going to do it. After a couple of hours, literally, on the phone with Delta, I’m leaving Barcelona a day earlier, spending the night near Charles DeGaulle, and arriving JFK on my scheduled date of October 11. This whole process is stressful for me because the airlines are in complete control and at any moment they could cancel the flight or say, sorry, the dog carriers are one inch too long, or there´s some detail I missed in the paperwork. It’s humbling and unsettling.

On a lighter note, when I first got back to Begur and saw the balcony at my new apartment, I was THRILLED. Because it’s on the second floor, there’s no roof above me, just sky, and because I’m on the north end, there’s nothing blocking my view of the mountains (where snow fell this week). I really thought I’d hit the jackpot!

THEN, the wind came. I think it was only about 35 mph, but that was sustained for hours and I think there were higher gusts. The table, which is fairly heavy, was moving and the chairs were skating. A couple of the shutters are broken, so I had to tie one to the radiator in my bedroom to keep it from banging open and closed. The dogs were scared and so was I! Maybe if I come back here, the apartment with the balcony with the lovely view of the sea, and a roof and wall will be my pick!

Answering my Spanish telephone has always been a bit challenging. It’s usually someone I don’t know and who doesn’t know I’m not a native speaker and they just start rattling in Spanish and I have to try to grab some key words so I can figure out who it is and what they want. Today I got a call and I swear I thought she said “I’m calling from the Department of Alcohol”! I thought WTF? How do they know? Turns out it was Vodafone my mobile phone carrier. I don’t know how I got it that wrong, but I was greatly relieved for once that it was a solicitation call!

I guess it’s come down to this — I have to admit that I’m a ditz; I can be flaky.

First, whe I was leaving France for Spain, I planned to stop and spend the night halfway because I don’t enjoy long car trips. I made a reservation at an inexpensive European chain hotel in Clermont-Ferrand. I’d driven about 2.5 hours, and I was almost there, when I got a call from Susan that I’d left both of my computers, tablet, and some important papers that were all in the same bag. I had to think fast. I knew in theory that Susan could pack it all up and send it to me, but it would take time and effort, and although the risk was low, there was some risk. So…I turned around, drove back to Rogny, and spent another night. I had to drive all 10 hours the next day, damn it.

Then, first day back in Begur, I walked out of my apartment and left the keys inside. The door locks automatically. Shit. Xavi, my neighbor, said he knew a woman who knew a woman who cleaned apartments there who certainly would have a key. Another neighbor said the same thing. He knew a woman who knew a woman who worked for a company that cleans apartments. After more than a few phone calls, including Xavi calling his mother, we hit a dead end. Both women worked for different companies, and neither was the one that cleans my apartment. Then Xavi remembered that another neighbor had a ladder. That guy was having a soccer lesson or something, but when finally reached by phone, he didn’t have a ladder. Finally, Xavi remembered that the neighbor with no ladder had a key to the upstairs apartment two doors down from mine. So, Xavi climbed over a couple of walls and then the balustrade to let me in.

He’s such a nice guy that it was a terrible shame when two days later I did it again. At least then we knew the plan, but the guy with the key was out of town, so he had to call and get the code for the alarm. Ay ay ay. I had two extra keys made. One is in my car, and Xavi has the other, just for good measure.

The next night my doorbell rang at about midnight! It was a guy who lives across the street. I’d seen him walking with his golden retriever sometimes. He’d locked himself out of his apartment and needed to call a locksmith. Unlike me, he hadn’t left windows open. I took him to Xavi, who I knew would know what to do.

That’s all the stupid stuff I’ve done just in one week’s time!

The most exciting thing that’s happened this week is that I have conquered the garbage situation. When I was here last year, my landlady told me there was no garbage pickup at the apartments. So, garbage became my hobby. It took a lot of time. They are very serious about recycling here and there are five categories of garbage: glass, plastic, paper, food/organic, the “rest.” So, I had to keep five separate containers for the garbage and then haul it all to the recycling bins by car. Now, the town has expanded pickup to the environs of Begur including where I live. I was very confused about the pickup days. The instructions on the refrigerator magnet in English, Spanish, French, and Catalan explain that garbage is picked up FIVE days a week!! Can you believe it? I think some places in the states have pickup once a week or less. But the confusing part to me is that the days listed are for the putting out of the trash, not the picking up of the trash. So when it says “Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Sunday,” it really means “Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Monday.” I couldn’t get that to compute at first, but now I’m chugging along…Yeah!

Today at the grocery store I was startled to see there is a new flavor of potato chip, or at least I missed it last time around…

And after a nasty morning storm, this happened. I love the aquamarine…

I’m back to my home that’s not my home. It’s strange to be in a different apartment in the same complex (only 12 units). I arrived on the weekend of September 11, the national day of Catalunya, which has a different meaning here. While most nations celebrate a victory day, the Catalans chose a day of defeat commemorating the fall of Barcelona during the War of the Spanish Succession in 1714. Because September 11 was on a Friday, it was a “puente” (literally a bridge, but meaning a long weekend). I was slightly horrified when I arrived that the town was packed with tourists and second home owners just as it was when I left in July! The parking lot of my complex was full and there were cars on the street and people everywhere. It was disheartening. But then on Monday morning, voila! They were gone!! School started and everyone scattered. It’s wonderful to be here in the peace and quiet and beauty of the place. I couldn’t be happier!

That said, I’m ambivalent about leaving to come home. I’ll be flying out of Barcelona with my new French friend and my two dogs in October, almost five months after my originally scheduled departure date. I hate that there is a murderous virus out there and I didn’t enjoy feeling like a prisoner held somewhat against my will, but it’s been wonderful and dispiriting and challenging and instructive and I wouldn’t change the experience for anything.

I’m dreading the travel back to the States. I bought a face shield, which I’ll wear with my N95 mask I’ve been saving. I plan to quarantine myself in Galveston when I get back. Who knows what kind of people and germs I could come in contact with during the trip!

Hope to see each of you in some safe space very soon!! Of course, I have a few more weeks of adventure before I leave… I love it!

I get emails from a French food company, La Belle-Iloise, because I’ve ordered some products from them. They sell fancy canned tuna and sardines of various types. But, for you Texans, you’ll be glad to know that you can get a jar of your favorite “famous Texas recipe” for Mackerel Chili made of white beans and chunks of mackerel! Yum! Those french have got our number!

As I leave France, I’m not sure how I can ever thank her.  My friend and recent ex-housemate, Susan, gave me a home, and a fabulous home, when I really needed one.  I was stuck in Europe alone with my canine dependents, without a place to stay for at least six weeks (and it turned into eight!).  I tried my best to repay her by cooking dinner often, sometimes successfully, and other times adequately, and being the bartender.  But there was a big deficit to overcome – her cats were forced into their own one-room quarantine for nine hours a day, while my dogs lived free.  If by chance the dogs came into visual contact with one or both cats, all Hell broke loose – running cats, screaming mimi dogs.  Although I’m affable, adaptable, and amenable to most anything, I also have some drawbacks.

Susan, besides being good company and a brilliant raconteur (even though I can’t remember all of the cast of characters in her extensive array of anecdotes), came up with the very good ideas that eventually got me back to Spain and hopefully, by extension to home in the near future.

I can never thank her enough.  And obviously, my dogs were crazy about her.

Au revoir, Susan!  I know I will be back in Rogny again some day…

…

It was a long trip back to Spain, but I have arrived. Same location, different apartment, and slightly different (better) view. I’m looking forward to enjoying it for a few weeks before heading back to the States. More details as they become available.

I eff’ed up again. I accidentally published the above photo last week and when I attempted to update it with the text, the website read it as a revision, not a new post, so it wasn’t sent out automatically on Friday as I had scheduled. Whoops! Some of you have already read it because you went directly to the website. If this is a repeat for you, sorry…

I didn’t move across the street to the Presbytère (explanation to follow) on Monday as planned. One of the neighbors, occupant of the Presbytère, had a dental issue requiring him to stay in the area. So, I moved in on Thursday. It’s nice to have a full-sized bed to share with Cassie and Cam, but I really felt more at home in my nest at Susan’s place. Some of you may know, but I didn’t, that it’s called the Presbytère (Presbytery in English) because it was the rectory or home of the priest in the village. The village is so small, and shrinking, so there’s not a full-time priest living here. The neighbors bought it some years back. The house dates to the mid-1700’s. It’s very charming.

I appears my request for an extension of my visa has been approved by the French authorities!!! I say “appears that” because the person who answered the phone said that it had been approved, but that it was still being processed. He said the person in charge of my application for an extension was not in the office. She is the one in charge of the “W’s” — of course! Anyway, it means that I’ll be legal for the time period while I’m waiting to leave. I’m greatly relieved!

I thought I’d add a couple of humorus photos from the French grocery store.

On my walk the other day, I encountered an old French, I suppose, hippie leading three mules pulling a wagon filled with baskets. The wagon looked like a gypsy wagon, but he didn’t look like a gypsy – just your ordinary door-to-door salesman selling baskets out of a wagon pulled by mules.

Next week, I’ll report from Spain, God willing!! They’re talking about closing the border again. Jeez.

I guess I’m a day late and a dollar short. I thought yesterday was Thursday!!

I’m moving across the street on Monday, still in Rogny, but now I’ll be living on my own. The neighbors left for Brittany for their annual vacation and I’ll be watching the chickens and watering the plants. Now I just have to worry about my dogs killing chickens instead of cats. Ayayay! Two of them (the neighbors) have serious underlying health issues, so we’ve been distancing and I’m wiping down my rooms. I’ll still make dinner for Susan and visit out on her lovely patio every evening, while during the day, I’ll have plenty of opportunity to quietly ponder my uncertain future.

My French dog mule has sent her passport for renewal, so that’s underway. I’ll probably make a reservation soon to come back, but it may have to be “flexible” because we have to wait for her new passport to arrive.

In the meantime, I’ve decided to go back to Begur for a few weeks before leaving for the US. An apartment in my same complex is available! Yeah! And, incredibly, it has even better views than the last one. This apartment is upstairs from my old one and on the end of the building, so it has unobstructed views of the mountains and the coast north of Begur. I’m very excited about driving back “home” although I will be a little sad to leave my friend and the village of Rogny. It’s been such a lovely place to be for almost two months. I’m feeling at home here and sentimental about it.

But this is my spot!! (Below)

PS: Sorry for Lake Charles, but so so glad Galveston dodged the bullet of Hurricane Laura!! It would have been ironic and sad if, now that I’m sort of homeless, I lost my only real home.

So, I have some progress for now, and hopefully I can report on real plans soon. Fingers crossed!

Cases are rising here in France and also in Spain. At some point, I may have no choice…In the meantime, here are a couple of pretty pictures:

I keep saying this, to myself and to everyone, but maybe next week I’ll have a real plan!

I really thought this was going to be the week when I would announce when I was returning to the States.  That’s what I get for thinking!  I’ve been on pins and needles all week, waiting to find out if I would be able to confirm that I have a companion for the flight.   After living in limbo for so long, I finally have a couple of options for people who could fly back to the States with me and the dogs (for a free ticket and a little cash).  If the first potential companion doesn’t accept, employing the second may require me to overstay my visa legally or illegally.  I’m pursuing an extension of my visa from the French authorities based on force majeure.  I’m still waiting on answers, so no plan yet.  Maybe next week…

I’ve learned to live in the present …one day at a time…since the beginning of lockdown, and I’ve also tried to completely tune out the annoying questions in my head such as When should I go back to the US?  When is it safe?  How do I do it?  Who will help me?  Will I get in trouble?  I’m good (probably great) at compartmentalizing, but it’s been a struggle at times.

I’m starting to think maybe France agrees with me!  About four years ago, I was diagnosed with slightly elevated blood pressure and the doctor prescribed a low dose medication to correct it.  When Covid struck and I read that hypertension was a co-morbidity for the virus, I started paying more attention to taking my medication every day (I was really bad at that) and checking my pressure.  I have a blood pressure cuff and my reading has stayed basically he same  — not high, but not low, closer to borderline.  But since I’ve been checking it in France, it’s been LOW!!  I don’t know what the difference is, but…it’s great!  I had one thought – maybe it’s lower because I’m not alone.

I don’t have much more to report this week.  I’ve been cooking a lot.  So, some photos:

 

 

 

 

 

 

I know I write a lot about the dogs – but they are the source of all of my pain!!  And of course, the source of much of my joy.

Obviously, there’s the return to the US issue with them.  Then there have been the other issues – eating the chocolate, chasing the cats, being general pains-in-the-ass.  But now, there are the plums.  There are two plum trees in the backyard that drop plums by the dozens everyday.  One tree yields red plums and the other green plums.  The green plums are delicious – one of the best fruits I’ve ever tasted!  But, unfortunately, the dogs think so too.  And before I can find them all hidden in the grass each morning, they’ve gobbled them up, pits included.  After that comes vomiting and diarrhea – pits and all!  On the bed.  Yup.  Fun.

I save the best plums and throw the bad ones over the fence into an uninhabited area behind the house.  Sadly, I’ve thrown so many with my left arm (non-dominant arm) that it’s sore from flinging!  Ridiculous.

HAIR!  Since the dawn of time, I don’t think it’s caused such a ruckus as it has during the confinement!  My hair has never been this gray and hasn’t been this long since God knows when…decades!  The length has been kind of fun, but the color had to go!!  Six months of au natural was enough.

Better.

I’ve had a couple of new ideas about how I can get back to the States.  Still working on it. Again, stay tuned… and stay safe!!!

 

 

 

 

 

Photo is of the house across the street.

For 60 years, the label “Villes et Villages Fleuris” has been granted to municipalities throughout France to reward those committed to improving their quality of life based on their use of plants and flowers in public spaces, respect for the environment (management of natural resources and preservation of biodiversity), the development of the local economy, attractiveness to tourists, and the preservation of community.

Rogny is a village fleuri indeed!  One day while I was walking, I saw the municipal workers making their rounds of watering and caring for all of the town’s flowers that adorn the bridges over the canal.  I don’t think that’s a thing in the US.  They take a lot of pride in it.

     

I’ve been checking into the possibility of shipping the dogs home when the weather cools.  The cost I’ve been quoted from two different companies would be about $4,000.  That sure seems like a lot of money!  And I don’t want to do it because I want them with me in the cabin.  It would be much cheaper to buy a ticket for a human to accompany me on the flight, but Catch-22, it has to be an American.  And who would want to expose themselves needlessly to infection for the sake of Cassie or Cam??  But…

Then I discovered that United will allow a person to purchase a seat for their second pet.  This may end up costing as much as the hold, but it would be more acceptable to me.  If I choose this route, I would stay until my visa is expiring and then return to the US  in September.  The only problem is that I would have to fly out of Paris and possibly lose my free return from Barcelona on Delta.  Lots of details to figure out… it gives me a headache.  Still hoping for a blessing…

And lastly, today hit 101 degrees!  All fine and good (not really) if you have air conditioning…

So, you make do…with a blow-up pool!